Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
